The Vielles Vignes from the historic Chateau Bottiere is no easy-drinking Beaujolais. It's harvested from bush-trained vines so old and gnarled you'd barely know they could produce any grapes at all. These 100 year-old plants from a 1-hectare lot in the cru village of Julienas deliver well beyond the light and fruity, younger brother of Burgundy that we usually think of. There is some serious meat on this bone and a slight nod to the Rhone valley with tannins, black pepper and granitic minerality. This is seriously structured wine, and if the past trends are anything to go by, it won't be this affordable for long!